So here is my inaugural foodie blog post. What can I say, other than I love food...therefore, I am. We were so happy to return to Seattle and discover so many new restaurants had popped up! Some of our favorites so far have been helmed by chef Ethan Stowell. His style tends to be a mix of Italian, NW cuisine, and seafood.
Please excuse the lack of pictures, further restaurant/chef background, and knowledge base from which to actually discuss food appropriately in all further posts. I don't really want to sit and take notes while I eat, so most of this is from memory.
Appropriately, I forgot to take a picture of the outside of the restaurant or the inside (Google is your friend). But the feeling was hip-casual (as Capitol Hill tends to be), slightly upscale metal meets wood. Like many of Stowell's other restaurants, Anchovies & Olives has an open kitchen, visible to the diners while the cooks prepare amazing food. I love that half the wall is comprised of wooden bench seating; it worked great for our son Evan to snooze on, and slowly wake up from. The musical background was oddly a mix of 80's songs, chosen wisely enough and played at a low enough volume so as not to totally detract from the ambience.
I can't really comment on the wine list, other than there were quite a few bottles with grape varieties we didn't recognize. We asked the server for some recommendations on something bright and crisp, apple undertones, without being a Sauvignon Blanc (our go-to grape). She did a great job of recommending a
2011 San Gioavanni 'Il Lugana' (100% Trebbiano).
Our first thoughts, it was a huge bottle! It looked like it was a fifth of some sort of hard alcohol. We had just been so used to the long skinny bottles of Sauvignons and Rieslings. The wine had a surprisingly full body, with exactly what we asked for (crisp, bright, very subtle apple flavor). No floral or oaky taste here. As we are not overly fond of too many Chardonnays, it was nice to taste something that had a similar fullness, but less harsh flavor. Looking up Trebbiano grapes, (according to Janis Robinson's Oxford Companion to Wine), they are supposed to be "low in character, only good for providing acid and volume to basic vino bianco" However, Trebbiano grapes from Lugana are in fact Verdicchio grapes, providing more roundess. In any case, it was good. We will order it again.
The menu was divided into Crudo, Appetizers, Pasta, and Entrees. We elected to try a sample from each. Like most of our favorite restaurants, the menu is ever-changing.
From the Crudo section, we started off with two oysters each:
Barron Point Oysters with a Kumquat Chili Ice and
Eagle Rock Oysters with Chili Vinegar and Chives. (Evan was still waking up at this point, playing with the ice after he woke). The Barron Points were a small, slightly sweet bite, with a mild citrusy/kumquat after taste at the very end once theflavored ice melted quickly on the tongue. (David's favorite). I preferred the Eagle Rocks, a medium-sized oyster that was again, slightly sweet, with a fair amount of mineral brightness... melded well with the surprisingly mellow and smooth chili vinegar throughout. I made sure to slurp the remaining juices left in both shells and wish we had ordered more. Who needs tomato-y cocktail sauce that hides a lot of the oyster flavor, when you can have fresh oysters with interesting toppings to enhance the flavors?
Next, we had the
Spanish Mackerel Crudo, with celery, pinenuts, and smoked sultanas. Another fantastic dish. The most interesting part this course was the smoked sultanas. (These are a fancy name for golden raisins.) They were a little sweet punch, yet had a smoked salmon taste to them. The mackerel came in nice bite-sized chunks with a pleasant, fresh flavor. I am always a sucker for celery, which in thin cuts with the pine-nuts gave a nice textural interest. The parsley was a little strong, but mixed well in larger bites of other components. The side of the dish held small drops of a honey-vingar like reduction.
Oh, I forgot to mention the
bread! A chewy, baguette from a local bakery (forget the name), offered with a slightly green-tasting, full and flavorful olive oil with a sprinkling of sea salt. I love bread. I often hoard pieces at the end of a meal so the server can't steal them away from me.
Next, off the appetizer section,
Smoked Fish Crostini with capers, oil cured olives, and aioli. These were so good, I forgot to take a picture until there was only 1 left. We're not quite sure what type of fish was included in these. They appeared to be mostly comprised of salmon, judging from the light pink color and oily, yummy, familiar taste. So rich and good. I couldn't really taste the olives, but I'm sure they added to the distinctiveness... breaking up the monotony of luscious fattiness. The crostini were cooked perfectly as well, still with a little chew, but crisp, not overly crunchy. (Evan liked these. Yay!)
Next came the
Grilled Octopus with Controne beans, celery, pickled red onion, and smoked chili oil. We ordered this mainly because we had tried Stowell's grilled octopus at one of his other restaurants (Tavolata) and had fallen in love. This dish wasn't quite as successful, due to the slightly overcooked and chewy octopus. The octopus was charred a little too much, taking away from its delicate flavor, and broken up in too small chunks. In retrospect, I think this dish was supposed to be more of a salad than an appetizer. The dish came with the same celery-parsley mix we had seen earlier with the crudo. And while it was good, it was more of the same. The beans were quite good, adding some fullness to the dish. The pickled red onion combined with the light sweet and sour like vinaigrette were the highlights of the dish. David and I argued over whether the vinaigrette had chili oil in it vs paprika (we no longer had our menus at this point). The waitress was nice enough to check with the kitchen and proved us both right.
On to pasta. We opted for something Evan-friendly and got the
Linguine with Manilla clams, arugula, and Meyer lemon. The noodles tasted house-made, al-dente and abundant. The clams were cooked to perfection, probably the best I've ever had. Not too chewy at all and seasoned perfectly. The arugula seemed more of an afterthought, barely present in the dish. The Meyer lemon zest was a nice zing when it was present in the bites. However, the dish overall was a little dry, needing more olive oil. Still enjoyable.
Lastly, we ordered the
Branzino entree. This came as a whole fish, grilled with fennel, topped with Taggiasca olives and Olio Nuovo ("New Oil" the freshest, first extra-virgin olive oil off the press, notable for its vivid flavor). The fish was a little overcooked, making it a little more grainy than desired, as well as slightly over-charred. The inner pieces proved much better. The server filleted the fish for us, table-side, and unfortunately left quite a few bones. This made it much more difficult to eat than we had hoped, especially with a young child accompanying us. Fennel and olives always produce a nice pairing together (as we often make a chicken dish at home with those two ingredients). Overall, nice dish... but one we are not sure we'd order again.

When it came time for dessert, we opted to pass. The table next to us looked like they had a yummy affogato. The menu sported some other fine desserts, but nothing jumped out at us. Instead, we opted to travel to nearby Dilettante Chocolates for some chocolate torte cake with chocolate mousse, raspberry preserves, and truffle glaze. No picture of that one. Sorry. (Carrot cake for Evan!)
Overall, a very enjoyable evening. We will be sure to return to Anchovies and Olives again in the future, especially before oyster season ends.
Note: We had another wonderful dinner here a few weeks later, and went all out for my brother's birthday. Was too lazy to take pictures and blog, but everything was even better the second time!